Thrills for the Pils

If you have had beer, you've had a pilsner. It is one of the most pervasive beer styles on the market, anywhere and everywhere.

No, but seriously.

Are you in the middle of the Grecian countryside? Pilsner. (Mythos, to be exact.) Uganda? Club Pilsner. Argentina? Quilmes. Lebanon? Almaza.

They're all pilsners and all some of the best selling beers in their respective countries. And I could keep going.

Although your standard, basic pilsner has been around for, well almost forever, the craft beer world recently took the style and ran with it. And now many of the crafties are very particular about their different types of pilsners.

So, it’s worth knowing the different sub-styles out there, what makes them different, and just a bit of the history. (So you know why Urquell is important. Because Pilsner Nerds will know and judge you if you don’t.)

three green beer glass bottles — Photo by Nick Karvounis / Unsplash

Going Back in Time

We always start with history here, so let’s go back in time.

This is where Urquell comes in. Pilsner Urquell was the first pale lager ever brewed, so it earns the title of Very First Pilsner.

This was in 1842 in the town of Plzen, Bohemia (now the Czech Republic).

Can you spot where “pilsner” got its name?

There’s a whole lore behind its invention, one that includes bad beer being viciously spilled in the streets, a visit to a German brewery, a heist by some monks to bring back German yeast to Bohemia, and some naturally perfectly temperature-regulated caves.

What we know for sure is that Bohemian Martin Stelzer did study the German brewing processes and bring it back to his country. This is where the decision for using the 'lagering method' for the pilsner beer came from.

We also know that - although the full scientific knowledge around yeasts & fermentation wouldn’t be discovered until the late 1800s by Louis Pasteur - the brewers did already know that specific yeasts were important. And the temperature at which those different yeasts were used was also extremely important. This is again why using the lagering method is key - a colder environment for the types of yeasts they were using was crucial to get clear, crisp, drinkable beer.

Then, we have brewer Josef Groll, who brought in the very important addition of Saaz hops into the picture. This hop was extremely prolific during this time, and is now a key part of what makes a Czech Pilsner a Czech Pilsner.

The last difference was using only partially malted grains. This is also extremely indicative of this new beer type, since up until that point many beers were ales, and dark and heavy ales at that.

So, with the use of local cold yeasts + cooler temperatures than previously used during fermentation + Saaz hops + partially malted barley, Pilsner Urquell was born.

And the beer almost immediately became famous. Thanks to the Radbuza River running right through Plzen, the brewery was able to export the beer all over the area, and because it was so different from other beers of the time, people immediately absolutely loved it.

a glass of beer on a table — Photo by Evgeniy Smersh / Unsplash

What is a Pilsner?

Nowadays, Urquell is not the only pilsner out there. So, what is a pilsner, in the most basic sense?

Pilsners are pale lagers. That means a couple of important things.

The barley used in the ingredient list are very lightly malted. This is important for that delicate, light tasting beer, as opposed to darker or heavier flavors.
Being a lager means it uses a yeast that can (and should) withstand cold temperatures for a long period of time. So, it is a bottom-fermented beer matured at cold temperatures. This method results in the very crisp, clean taste we associate with lagers (and pilsners).
The third distinction is different for each type of pilsner… so let’s take a look at how the sub-types differ from each other.

Pilsner Types

I would argue there are only two main types of pilsners, but, if we want to be more encompassing in our knowledge, I will allow the idea that there are four.

Czech-Style: We already learned that this is the OG pilsner. This is where it all started. And there are two big distinctions to this sub-category.

First, is the use of Saaz hops. If anyone is attempting to brew a “Czech-style Pilsner” it absolutely must have Saaz hops. Otherwise, you’re just kidding yourself.

This hop is spicy, herbal, earthy, and mild and is KEY to this category. It also has a low bitterness to it, which is why - while Czech-style pilsners are considered slightly ‘hoppy’ - these lagers are not hop-bombs like IPAs.

The second distinction is the Czech water itself. It’s said to be some of the most naturally pure and ion-free water you can use for brewing. This water tones down the spiciness of the Saaz hops, and generally creates a softer tasting beer.

German-Style: Still using pale malts and the lager process, the big difference here are again the hops and water used.

The water in Germany has a higher mineral content, which comes through in the brewing process. And they use floral, noble hops. These two aspects combined means that German-style pils often have a more earthy flavor to them.

They are also generally less hoppy and lighter in color than Czech-style pilsners.

Euro-Style: These are mainly made in Holland or Belgium, and are less common than the two sub-types above. They are known as being sweeter than the other two and this is often due to the use of adjuncts.

(Adjuncts in this case means they use other grains besides just barely in the recipe.)

American-Style: You could call this one a sub-sub category under the German style, because most American brewing comes from the German tradition. But, while American-style pilsners may use same or similar yeasts as their German counterparts, local hops are used and the difference in the water plays a big role in their different taste profiles.

American-style pilsners are classified as sweeter than the others, and a bit more yellow-golden than the lighter, crisper other styles.

The other big distinction is the use of corn as a grain alongside barely. So very American.

America can on brown sand near body of water — Photo by Blake Guidry / Unsplash

Before You Go

There are two other important facets of pilsner to know.

First, a good pilsner is hard to brew. While it might be one of the most common beer styles out there, I’m not going to say all the pilsners available are good ones. Whomp whomp.

There is nowhere to hide in a pilsner. With an IPA if you don’t like something about it as a brewer, you can “cover it up” with adding just a $h!tload of hops. Similar with a stout or porter; that roast chocolatey flavor will cover up a lot of sins. But you have to know what you’re doing with a pilsner.

And because the lagering method takes time and very specific temperatures to get right… well, a lot of folks just don’t get it right.

So, if you come across a truly good pilsner, enjoy it! And shout it out from the rooftops. Congratulate that brewer! And send others to enjoy it as well.

Second, it is not hard for pilsners to go bad. In part this is because they are such delicate beers. The light malt, soft water, and mild hops are not the crazy flavor bombs of IPAs or stouts. They are gentle beers.

That paired with the fact that many of the very popular, easy drinking brands are bottled in green-glass bottles is what makes it so easy for pilsners to go bad.

Green-glass bottles just do not protect beer. Like, at all.

Heineken, Stella, Urquell, Amstell, Mythos, Jever, and so many others can all be found in green bottles.

Booooooooooooo.

Beer needs to be protected from light. If it’s not, UV rays interact with compounds found in hops to give you skunky, burnt rubber, cat musk aromas. No one wants cat musk when they were hoping for gentle Saaz goodness. So if you can, buy imported pilsners in cans.

green and white labeled bottle — Photo by Sahil Pandita / Unsplash

Weekly Adventure

I would love it if you would make your own little tasting tray of pilsners. Get one from each sub-type we covered, and see if you can spot the differences.

Here are four, very common ones you’ll be able to find near you:

Czech-Style: Pilser Urquell

German-Style: Bitburger

Euro-Style: Heineken Lager

American-Style: Budweiser (or, if you’re like HELL NO, like me, then try Victory Prima Pils instead).

Remember, get them in cans. And happy tasting!

Cheers,

Molly